Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Bouquins and Bewilderment

There are a lot of things to love about the French language and culture(s). High on my list is the word "bouquin" and its verb partner "bouquiner." These are essentially slang terms for "book" and "to read." If language is a reflection of culture, what does it say that a group of people have created a colloquial word for reading? French francs used to have great writers are artists on them before they changed to the euro (maybe paper euros still have them...I should have looked more closely.) The French have an institution devoted to honoring and recognizing the works of writers and thinkers (the Académie Française). Studies have shown that until recently reading was favored over T.V. watching as a typical leisure activity.

I am a bibliophile myself. I have long loved the smell of musty books, probably thanks to my maternal grandmother. I happily inherited classic volumes from her and my mother. I acquired more at a bookstore in Wisconsin that was housed in a renovated silo. I could lose myself for hours in a library or bookstore. I acquire books WAY faster than I can read them, as the piles on my bedside table can attest.

On my recent trip to France I savored time in bookstores on four different occasions.

On the first I stocked up on a few new children's books for my daughter. Luckily she loves them and has added the words "monstre," "aie," "loup" and "peur" to her vocabulary thanks to them. Although I was focused mostly on the stories themselves when picking them out, I was slightly disappointed by the homogeneity of the illustrations. Most were flat renderings with a limited color palette. It made me appreciate the creativity of classics like The Very Hungry Caterpillar which retains brush strokes and allows one color to shine through the one laid on top.

On the second, in Aix-en-Provence, I wanted to find some books on migritude. Having read about this literary movement in sources like The New York Times and having already read a few books by Fatou Diome, one of its principal participants, I wanted to find more. When I discovered a huge bookstore in the center of Aix, a city known for its diverse student population and a region that attracts immigrants and visitors from much of the francophone world, I thought it would be a good starting point. Unfortunately, the clerk working that day had never heard of "migritude" or any associated authors. She located three of Diome's books but couldn't be of more help than that.

This experience has made me wonder about the state of francophone literature within France and outside it.  My French parents, sister and her siblings have studied few, if any, francophone works and in some cases have never heard about authors from the francophone canon. Are the drivers of francophone studies largely located outside of France? One possible indicator can be found in the advisory boards of academic journals. Most of the biggest Names work in the U.S. or U.K. Hmmm...

Third, the classification system used at a bookstore on rue Mouffetard in Paris was enlightening. In glancing at the shelves I noticed a section of "Anglophone" literature, one devoted to "La Caraïbe et Afrique" and a third with literature from the Maghreb and Mashreq (although I can't remember the exact title of this section). To my surprise the Caribbean/African section contained books by Maya Angelou and Dave Eggers. Nina Bouraoui and Leïla Sebbar, however, were integrated in the stacks of "French" authors. When I asked the woman working she thought about it for a moment then explained it had more to do with the authors' subject matter and sensibilities than their origins. This fascinates me. In my mind, no contemporary author better embodies American experiences than Angelou. I don't recall a strong "Caribbean" or "African" current in her works. Eggers' body of work explores a range of subjects and genres. For example, Zeitoun is a nonfiction book that looks at a Syrian-American impacted by Hurricane Katrina. What is the What is a novel following a Sudanese refugee. A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius is a memoir about his life. Other topics include world travel, Saudi Arabia and working in corporate America. His "Caribbean" or "African" sensibilities elude me. Yet I use the word "enlightening" because the organization of this one bookstore perfectly illustrates something many of us take for granted: the whole world is organized according to individual choices. Those choices are based on an infinite number of reasons. They are all subjective at some level. There is no single way in which to categorize a group of something which means there is also no "right" way to group it either.

I suspect the bookstore's owners who trying to transcend geo-political boundaries when they decided to group books by topic or "sensibility." How do you neatly categorize a group of authors like Bouraoui, or Sebbar, who have parents of different origins? Or Marguerite Duras and Albert Camus whose parents were of the same origin (French) but who grew up far from metropolitan France in what were French colonies (Indochina and Algeria, respectively)? Better yet, how do you justify grouping all four together as this bookstore did? How many different categories would you have to create in order to give each group its own unique identity? And yet, if everything in the whole store were simply shelved according to author's last name, how much unnecessary scanning would customers have to do?

Fourth, the bookstore located at the Institut du monde arabe. For a francophoniste it was heaven. 




There was no need to ask where the "francophone" authors were located. Virtually everything was francophone. There was no disappointment to see only the most canonical works that I already own to be found. There were numerous new works by my favorite authors. I could have spent a fortune and hours there. In the end I bought only one book by Maïssa Bey, a short play she recently wrote, Tu vois c'que j'veux dire?, because I think it will be short, pithy, and accessible to my upper level students.

These four experiences illustrate the trajectory my own reading has taken. I began college with a cursory (at best) understanding of francophone literature and no interest in children's literature. Now I specialize in francophone literature, interrogate the ways it is classified, and seek ways to make it accessible for my students. Oh, to have a leveled library for them, where they would have a wealth of options at the right level the foster their language competence. Now I am a bit of a children's book snob. Clearly taste, like language choice, is reflective of experience.

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Aller/Retour: Reflections on France 8 Years Later

I spent just over two weeks in France with a diverse group from my university. By diverse I mean an art history professor, her husband, six art history students, a retired music professor who went for fun, a 60+ year old French student, the biological mother of an art history student who also joined just for fun, and a non-traditional student originally from Guatemala who recently graduated and wanted to add more international travel to her resume. We spent the bulk of our time in Paris, bien sûr, and a few days in Aix-en-Provence and Marseille.

View from the Marseille train station. 

It had been eight years since my last trip to France. The last time I was there I was still a student working on my PhD. I was the co-chaperone to a group of high school students. We used a private bus and French guide to lead us from Paris through Normandie and Bretagne. The students stayed with French families in Rennes and I stayed with my own near Nantes.

There were many similarities between the two trips. My favorite foods haven't changed (chèvre, coconut anything, hazelnut anything, croissants aux amandes, rillettes, galettes, Muscadet, etc) and my favorite sites/activities are about the same ("owning" a table at a café for an hour or so of reading and writing, any kind of castle, the Musée d'Orsay, rue Mouffetard, boulevard St. Michel).





A lot of things were different, though. There were places I re-visited and re-appreciated.


There were things I did, tried or saw for the first time. Like this sculpture in Place Sarte/Beauvoir near St. Germain des Près in Paris.

Like this example of street art off of rue Mouffetard in Paris


Or Canal St. Martin in eastern Paris, a neighborhood gaining in popularity thanks to its reputation as a hipster enclave


And this Algerian pastry shop in the same neighborhood


I'd been to Marseille before and loved its bright, urban vibe, but I hadn't ventured to the islands just off its coast including Château d'If. My first visit there cultivated my love of Maghrébin pastries but this trip I shared them with the students and made it part of a lesson on France's diversity.


I'd long wanted to visit the Institut du monde arabe and finally made it on my last day. This is a close up of the windows along its facade. The building's architecture and position perfectly reflect its purpose and contents.


I noticed several social changes as well. For example:

  • many, many people were exercising in Paris, notably by running laps in the Luxembourg garden. No one looked strangely at them as they did me when I went running in France last time
  • very few people smoked
  • portion sizes in restaurants were huge and several restaurants offered (unsolicited!) to give out doggie bags
  • most of the students did not speak French and yet they had no trouble with shopkeepers, waiters, or customer service agents who were more than willing, and in some case eager, to speak English
  • throughout Paris there were many more locals with Asian roots than I'd ever noticed before
  • Maghrébins were more mainstream than ever before as evidenced in the popularity of pâtisseries, restaurants, and boutiques managed by them and located in heavily touristed areas. My favorite off of boulevard St. Michel in Paris had been renovated since my last pilgrimage. In the past I was usually the only one there. This time there were six people (French, judging from their accents) ahead of me and three more behind. The daughter of one of my students lives just down the street and attests to its popularity with the locals
  • despite of, or perhaps because of, the Front National swept the elections while I was there, undoubtedly changing the makeup of the Assemblée nationale and France's representation in the EU